Watercooling 3D Printers

Why?

I recently upgraded to an AWD setup from BRS Engineering on my RatRig V-Core 3.1 300mm. With that, I wanted to watercool my stepper motors since 2 of them would now be enclosed. Since I was already watercooling the motors, I ended up water-cooling my hotend, a Goliath, a well.

Do you really need to watercool your motors and hotend? Probably not, but is it cool? Definitely.

There wasn’t much info on watercooling in 3D printing, especially when doing a ‘custom’ setup. So I put together this guide to hopefully help others seeking to do the same.

Happy printing!

Layout

  1. General Info

  2. Specific info/guides/resources

  3. Install notes

  4. Purchase links (I have not relation to the links, but it is what I bought)

  5. My setup gallery

 

General Information

  • Mellow watercooling blocks (all types)

    • Thread: M5

    • Tube OD: 4mm

  • Water pump/reservoir

    • Thread: G1/4

      • G1/4 is a common PC watercooling thread, so most radiators and stuff will be threaded that way

  • Preferred tube material

    • PU

      • Silicone will just give you trouble, it's too bendy

 

Specific Information

Tubing

When inserting tubing into quick-disconnect fittings (think ECAS for ptfe tubes), you need to push them further than you think, or you will leak!

You can use a bit of silicone-based lube or dish soap to get them past the O-ring

 

Flow Meters

The flow meter is a cool concept, but mine only sometimes spins - I don't think we're pushing enough flow with the tube sizes we have

 

Flow Regulators

I had trouble with non-ball valve regulators, so I’d use ball valves (Pictured below)

 

Radiator Position

According to the big PC guys out there, it's best to mount your radiator at the top of your loop, so that's what I did

 

Bleed Valves?

I just use a simple flow regulator to let air out when needed

 

1 Loop, 2 Loops?

The hotend and motors should be 2 loops. The reason for this is that the hotend loop will be much shorter and requires less flow. Since you will have 2 individual loops, you can control their flow rates separately.

If using different diameter tubing between motors and hotend, you want to restrict a certain tubing size to a single loop - hence 2 loops

My setup looks like this (more or less)

 

Pump Vibrations?

If you want to mount your pump to your printer frame, you may be worried about it vibrating your printer. There's a good amount of discussion on pump mount design that reduce vibrations.

TPU to the rescue! I've found that some simple TPU risers (or rubber risers bought) between your pump and pump mount reduce vibrations by 90%-95% - don't need anything more complicated than that!

 

I used 5mm-tall risers printed in 85A TPU (NinjaFlex)

 

More Flow for the Motors?

I upgraded my 4 Mellow waterblocks to 6mm OD fittings for more flow since we’re cooling a lot more than the hotend loop. Up to you if you want to do this, but they’re cheap from Amazon and an easy upgrade.

 

Should we use the G1/4 Fittings to our Advantage?

I personally used 3/8” tubing from my pump to radiator just because I could. Up to you if you want to do the same.

 

Installation Notes

Great video from Vez3D on how to install the stepper motor mounts + how he set his loops up

 

Purchase Guide

  • I am not affiliated with any of these links, these are just the places I had a good experience with and items I bought.

Sites

  1. This site is great for fittings and other cooling parts, a little pricey but premium

  2. This is a good 3d-printing site for high-end parts

 

Pump/Reservoir

Mellow Pump/Reservoir

  • This one just works. Good flow, not too big, you probably want the 24v one

 
 

External TMC5160 Plates

Mellow Watercooling Plates

  • I haven’t tried these because I’m running a BTT Octopus Max EZ with integrated steppers, but if you have the standard VZBot setup with the 4 external TMC5160 Mellow drivers, this is pretty sick

 

Watercooled Extruder

VZ-Hetrudort

  • If you get this guy, you can run the Goliath hotend in “low” mode, meaning you ditch the large air fins or watercooling block (like the setup in my pictures below)

  • Note 1: If you can get the Vz-Hextrudort Plus watercooling model, I would suggest that over this original model linked

If you go with the above, remember you need the watercooling adapter plate! They’re called “Mounting Bracket Silver” or “Mounting Bracket Black” and look like the below picture

Watercooled Hotend

 

Radiators

240mm Radiators

  • Overkill? Probably, but it looks pretty sweet

120mm Radiator

 

M5 Fittings

6mm OD

4mm OD

 

Tubing

From/To Pump Tubing

  • 3/8” OD

Hotend Tubing

  • 4mm OD

Motor Tubing

  • Only needed if you upgraded the motors to 6mm OD fittings

 

G1/4 Fittings

T-Splitter

G1/4-to-3/8” 90 Degree Compression Fitting

  • Good for pump output

G1/4-to-3/8” Compression Fitting

Assorted G1/4 Fittings

  • Needed to extend, bend, etc your loop from the pump or radiator

 
 

Barbs

3/8” Barbs

  • Needed for 3/8” tubing if you don’t go with the premium parts from performance-pcs

 

Flow regulators

6mm OD

4mm OD

 

Bleed Valves

Flow regulators

  • I haven’t found a better way than using a flow regulator to relieve air when needed, placed at the top of the loop - let me know if there’s a better way!

 

Flow Monitors

G1/4-threaded flow meter

  • Again, I don’t really think these work well with the flow rates we’re pushing, but it is here if you want it!

 

Fans (for radiator)

Noctua 120mm Fans

  • Note: confirm the fan voltage will match your fan header voltage on your mainboard!

  • Any 120mm fan within your budget will work honestly, but these have been quiet and effective

 

Calculation time

Variables to Calculate Needed Items

  • All tubing ODs: 4mm, 6mm, 3/8”

  • All threads: G1/4, M5

    • From the above, you can find additional parts to convert back and forth as needed

 

My Setup

Klipper Configs

 

Happy Printing!

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